Overnight at Peterborough Marina – Slip B18
44°17’47.7060″N, 78°19’6.2256″W
What3Words: ///viewed.fines.devour

We got up early in the morning and had a leisurely breakfast. The sunrise was spectacular – although I expect that smoke from forest fires in the area had an effect on the deep red colour of the sky. Thankfully the fires are relatively small and under control – at least that’s what we were able to find out through searches on the internet.

A dramatic sunrise over Peterborough Lift Lock – red sky in morning…

The sailor’s old expression is something like “red sky at night, sailor’s delight, red sky in morning, sailor take warning”. Should we be concerned about taking the ride down in the lift lock?

Parks Canada Lock staff came by our boat and asked us if we were ready to go down. We were told that the Kawartha Voyageur would be coming up first and then we could take the next ride down. We were the only boat on the upper level that was going down so that would make navigating into the tank a bit less stressful.

Kawartha Voyageur exits lift lock – our turn is next!

We moved slowly into the tank and tied up on our port side. Once we were inside the tank the view forward was pretty amazing – but still we were essentially staring into open space in front of us with a 65-foot drop to the water below. It was a bit unsettling to think about despite reassurances from the staff.

The descent down was very steady, quiet and smooth and only took a few minutes. Now, that wasn’t so bad after all. One of the Lock staff “Doug” rode down with us – he was standing on the steel structure beside the tank and within easy reach of us. He helped to calm us down by telling us that he had spent the winter before ploughing snow in Yoho National Park, so we chatted with him about his experiences. That was a pretty neat coincidence!

The spot where Doug metaphorically held Catherine’s hand on the way down. Thanks Doug, you’re a champ!

We exited the lift lock to a beautiful canal reminiscent of the tree lined canals we have travelled on in France. Near the end of the canal, we came to a swing bridge in front of Lock 20 – the last lock before Little Lake in front of Peterborough’s downtown area. Lock 20 is also beside Parks Canada’s area operations base and the Canadian Canoe Museum.

Lift lock canal on the way to Lock 20 – reminiscent of the tree lined canals in France

We had a reservation at the Peterborough Marina downtown for the night. On the way to the marina we encountered a local tourist boat that gives people the experience of going up and down the lift lock. Looks like a fun job to be driving that boat.

Peterborough Lift Lock Cruises – It has its ups and downs!

We arrived there at 10:30 and were tied up on our assigned dock space by 11:00 am. We had made plans to meet friends Sue and Peter who live in Peterborough late in the afternoon. They had just got married the week before, so we were looking forward to catching up with them and hearing all about the wedding.

We walked downtown to find the Home Hardware for a replacement pin for the railing passage gate which went plink plunk plonk into the water at the top of the lift lock. I found a suitable replacement that would keep the gate secure for the balance of the season. On the way back to the marina we stopped at a Mr. Sub for lunch and then at the downtown No Frills store to pick up some groceries.

Laundry was free with the marina stay so Catherine did four loads – however, only one washer and dryer! The marina bathroom key pass card required a $100 deposit. Catherine retained control over the pass card so there was no chance of me misplacing this one!

Sue and Peter arrived late afternoon for snacks and cocktails – we toasted their nuptials and have a really nice visit. By coincidence this was “Rib Fest” weekend in Peterborough at the park beside the marina. The whole marina smelled like BBQ ribs backed by various country music live bands that were featured on the entertainment stage. We took a pass on sampling the ribs and the music was plenty loud – even at our dock slip. The live entertainment continued long into the night – but it was country and western music night and we did not bring our Stetsons or plaid shirts, so we went to bed early.

Newlyweds Sue and Peter visit us aboard Belisama

Cheers!

Overnight at Peterborough Lift Lock 21
44°18’30.1068″N, 78°18’2.6172″W
What3Words: ///prolonging.diesel.estimating

Today was a really big day with lots of milestones for our trip and exciting things to remember.

We were up early and had a relaxing breakfast including extra coffee for me and tea for Catherine. Lock operations begin each day at 9:00am so we had lots of time to reflect upon what has happened over the past several weeks and what lies ahead. We were both surprised when we looked closely at the calendar and realized that we had actually only been travelling for about two weeks! It feels like we’ve been on the water for two months! Talk about getting great value for our money – this proves again that buying a boat is a really sound investment. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it!

We walked down to the lock to watch the Kawartha Voyageur enter the lock and begin the “locking down” process to the river 16 feet below. I took a video of the process and have posted it on YouTube. Here is a link to the video: Kawartha Voyageur Locking Down. It’s a bit long but interesting to see how quickly the boat descends 16 feet to the river below.

It is interesting to note that the Kawartha Voyager raises its bow when it enters each lock. This must be done otherwise the ship is too big for the lock doors to close. After the locking procedure is completed the bow is lowered back into the water and away they go.

If you want to learn more about the Kawartha Voyageur and its cruises on the Trent-Severn and Rideau Waterways then click on this link: Canadian River Boat Cruises | Ontario Waterway Cruises

We followed the Voyageur shortly afterwards and headed towards Peterborough accompanied by two couples aboard a LeBoat charter boat. One couple was from Montreal and the other couple was from Australia. We travelled as a small group from Lakefield to Peterborough Lift Lock and had nice chats with them each time we passed through a lock.

Belisama exiting Lakefield Lock 21

We were also joined at the next lock by a group of six women who were kayaking to Peterborough.

It would take them about four hours of travelling – a great place to kayak, very calm water wide expanse as long as there was not too much boat traffic. Our boats arrived at each lock about 5-10 minutes before the kayakers caught up. We were all happy to wait for them. It was amazing how fast they were able to go.

Today turned out to be full of pleasant surprises. One stretch of the river passes very close to Highway 32 on the way to Lakefield. I noticed a few OPP cars going by with flashing lights (but no sirens) accompanied by several OPP officers on motorcycles. At first I thought it was some kind of special police escort or a training exercise. But then there were more police vehicles and motorcycles. Perhaps it was a tribute parade for OPP officers who had been injured or killed while in the line of duty. This line went on and on and then there were even more motorcycles ridden by civilians. There must have been well over 100 motorcycles plus a dozen or more support vehicles. Here is a link to a YouTube video showing just a small portion of the “parade”. Canada 911 Ride Near Lakefield Ontario

After we got settled on our overnight mooring spot we started doing some research online about all of the motorcycles we had seen earlier in the morning. It turns out it was a group ride organized by the Canada 911 Foundation.  The foundation hosts Canada’s only 3 day fully police-escorted motorcycle ride, an annual event that raises funds for a variety of important causes. Here is a link to the foundation’s website. This looks like a very worthwhile foundation to support. Canada 911 Ride Foundation

We knew we were getting close to Peterborough when we passed through the campus of Trent University. There were university buildings on each side of the river. Very impressive.

Passing by Trent University campus

We arrived at the upper level of the Lift Lock around 12:30 noon. We wanted to stay overnight at top side of lift lock 21 – with a 65 foot drop off straight ahead of us into the abyss – so we made sure we were tied up very securely on the lock wall. The lock staff said we were welcome to tie up there for an overnight stay and that it was perfectly safe. We were especially happy to remain overnight at this location because the visitor’s bathrooms were right beside our boat.

Belisama moored for the night at the top of Peterborough Lift Lock

After a brief rest we walked along the canal to the recently opened Canadian Canoe Museum and toured it. This is a wonderful facility with hundreds of exhibits. It is really well done and something that you could visit several times and still have lots to see and learn. Here is a link to their website: Home – The Canadian Canoe Museum.

The foyer and cafe at the Canadian Canoe Museum

This museum is incredibly well done. Lots of very informative exhibits.

Exhibit at the Canadian Canoe Museum

The museum also has a huge warehouse where dozens of donated canoes are stored. Visitors can also arrange for a guided tour inside the warehouse.

Canoe Museum Warehouse

Some of the exhibits are even interactive.

Learning how to portage

We returned to the boat later in the afternoon and I BBQd chicken for dinner. There were lots of tourists walking around exploring the upper and lower levels of the lift lock. I’m sure if I had enough chicken I could have made a few bucks selling chicken on a bun!

Tomorrow we will very slowly and carefully navigate Belisama into the tank and take the 65 foot ride down to the canal below. One of us is really excited about this and looking forward to it – the other person is feeling somewhat the opposite.

The lower side of Peterborough Lift Lock – tomorrow we take the ride down!

That’s a challenge for future Wally and Catherine to face.

Cheers!

Overnight at Lakefield Lock 26
44°25’11.8848″N, 78°16’15.9528″W
What3Words: ///removed.boggles.trout

Catherine writes:

The morning sky is clear and we left Burleigh Falls when the lock opened at 9:00. We traveled through Hell’s Gate, a tricky passage on Stoney Lake that is very narrow but well marked. Wally followed the Navionics Marine Navigation software on the tablet while I use the binoculars to find the red and green navigation markers.

Navionics screen on Android tablet

He likes the electronics which are very accurate and can plot out our passages in advance, but I like being able to follow the red and green navigation buoys along the way and the cruise details provided in our Waterways Guide Book for the Trent-Severn Waterway.

Ports Cruising Guide – An Essential Source of Information

The terrain has changed. We are out of the Canadian Shield and there are fewer huge properties. Now there is more forested areas with very pretty cottages and lots of small islands. We come onto Clear Lake which is very wide, and we are outside the 10 km speed limit zone. Wally pushed the engines a bit to make them work harder to improve their efficiency and clean burning. They tick over very well.

We come to Young’s Point which is a very narrow passage from Clear Lake to Lake Katchewanooka. There is a very sharp turn to the left and we are at Young’s Point Lock which has a rich heritage. Wally chatted with a woman who was standing beside the lock as we were “locking down”. Her grandfather was the original “Young” in the areas and had a small store there. This summer they celebrated their 200^th anniversary of being at the Point!

Youngs Point Lock 27 – photo copied from Google Maps

It’s an easy passage from there towards Lakefield. We were told the best place to tie up is above the lock. There is an extremely narrow and winding tree lined canal leading up to the lock. When we arrive lock staff informed us that the Kawartha Voyager is coming in a couple of hours to spend night at same lock. They had a reserved space further up the wall so we moored well behind them.

Belisama moored well behind Kawartha Voyageur

The cruise ship arrives around 5:00 p.m. and passes on our starboard side with about five feet to spare! The captain docked that boat like he was parallel parking a car. Amazing!

Through the afternoon we hear the cries of one or more Ospreys. I got the binoculars out and finally spotted their nest – high atop a power pole on the other side of the canal. There were at least two in the nest and perhaps some chicks in the nest that we could not see.

Ospreys nesting at Lakefield Lock

It’s the passengers’ last night aboard. When I walked by on the way to the bathroom later that night, they were whooping it up with some sort of pirate party involving hats and balloons. It makes me think of my mom and dad who took that trip years ago. I hope they had a pirate party too!

Kawartha Voyageur moored overnight at Lakefield Lock

Fortunately the pirates aboard the Kawartha Voyageur were a pretty tame bunch. I think most of them were in bed and asleep before we were.

Tomorrow morning we will watch the cruise ship pass down the lock and then we will follow behind them.

Overnight at Burleigh Falls Lock 28
44°33’30.8844″N, 78°12’30.0672″W
What3Words: ///lipless.juicing.parked

Catherine writes:

In the morning, we walk over the dam to Buckhorn Home Hardware to return a couple of things that Wally had bought the day before but ended up not being what he needed. It seems he cannot walk into a hardware store without buying something for the boat!

We cast off in the rain at 8:30 and cross Lovesick Lake through Lock 30. Again, very friendly and helpful staff at the lock even in the pouring rain. If there is time we usually tell staff that we used to work for Parks Canada and that we met in Yoho National Park 40 years ago, which invariably makes people go aawwwhhh that’s sweet!

Island 29 on Lovesick Lake – such an un- romantic name for an island on a lake called Lovesick

We had planned for an early stop at Burleigh Falls at the upper side of the lock and go to the Inn as they advertised a very tasty sounding breakfast.

Burleigh Falls Inn (photo copied from their website)

However, because we were slowed down in the rain it ended up being lunch which was just fine with us. They know how to make a pot of very hot tea, so I was happy to warm up with that. There were leftovers for supper, even better.

The bar in the restaurant at Burleigh Falls Inn – we will be sure to stop there again! (photo copied from their website)

In the afternoon we chatted with a lovely couple, Rick and Anna who had an older 36’ Marine Trader named “Rikahna” that Rick had painstakingly rebuilt. It was very impressive! Also impressive was their travelling companion – “Wizard”, a huge black cat that must have had some Maine Coone heritage – tufts on his ears and great big feet – so chill and comfortable walking on his leash and visiting our boat. Wish we had got a picture of them! Next time! Our boat needs a cat!

We stay at the upper side of the Burleigh Falls Lock for the night where it is very quiet. Tomorrow we head for the lift lock at Lakefield.

Overnight at Buckhorn Lock 31
44°33’21.5676″N, 78°20’44.6172″W
What3Words: ///longed.resisted.months

Catherine writes:

Ralph the mechanic arrived at 9:00 am with the refurbished alternators and new belts – yeah! Thank you, Ralph! It only took him a few minutes to install the rebuilt alternators, new fan belts and safety shroud covers. The engines were started to confirm that everything was working OK. Job well done Ralph and alternator rebuild shop in Peterborough.

Wally paid the bill for the marina and mechanical service. We have decided to bring the boat back here for haul out and winter storage. The marina is very friendly and well run, nice clean facilities for guests, their rates are reasonable, we like the mechanics as well as everyone at Kawartha Propeller so that feels like a good decision.

We left the marina around noon and headed to Buckhorn Lock 31 – just “around the corner” and only 10-15 minutes away. What started out as drizzle while we were in the lock began to intensify to a downpour, so we quickly decided to stay at the lower end of the lock for the night and get an early start the next morning. We are joined by three large houseboats and one smaller one for the night of steady and much needed rain in this area.

Wally writes:

What3Words screenshot of our location at Buckhorn Lock 31

For those of you who are interested, I have been using the “What3Words” app on my phone to quickly determine the Latitude and Longitude of our location at any point in time – or to look back at where we were or look forward to where we will be going.

This system is based on every location on the planet being divided into 3 square meter plots. Each plot is assigned a unique name of 3 words divided by a period “.”. For example: “longed.resisted.months” or, more traditionally: 44°33’21.5676″N, 78°20’44.6172″W –  is where we spent the night at Lock 31.

Each unique set of 3 words relate to a specific latitude and longitude. This system makes it really easy to share our location with anyone – compared to figuring out and sharing our latitude and longitude described as hours, minutes and seconds.

The system has proven to be so simple and reliable that many emergency services organizations (police, fire, ambulance and rescue) are adopting it in addition to the more traditional latitude and longitude readings because it is so easy for people who need assistance to share their exact location with anyone.

It is often humorous to see the combination of words that are used for a particular location we are at. Sometimes the coincidence of the 3 words in relationship to our situation at that moment in time is even a bit “spooky”.

The app for What3Words is free to for anyone use and available for download to Apple and Android phones and tablets with GPS. Here is a link to their website if you want to learn more:  About us | what3words