Category Archives: 2013 – South India

Wally & Catherine’s tour of South India in February 2013

Final Few Days of our Trip

Our South India Tour Group

We arrived back in London on Sunday, February 24th and are now dealing with jet lag, culture shock and adjusting to winter weather! It won’t take too long before we are back on schedule. We are both feeling more balanced with each day. There wasn’t much time to write anything for the past week so here is a brief overview. We said goodbye to our travel companions on Feburary 19th in Chennai, after lunch at a wonderful vegetarian restaurant.

We sampled their Thali plate which featured several small dishes of sauces served with bread, rice and dessert. After a short visit to the local museum, Raman was able to find our guest house and drop us off before finding everyone else’s hotels.
On the 20th, we spent the day with our friend Anne Escrader and her family. We had lunch with them and then Anne took us shopping at a couple of local places. We had another opportunity to zip around in an auto rickshaw which really is the best way to go!

 

Anne took us to a wonderful silk saree shop called Nalli where I thought I had died and gone to silk heaven! The walls were stacked to the ceiling with folded up sarees in spectacular colours, all organized according to price. They sold lovely scarves and off the rack outfits as well. I could have stayed there all day watching the salesmen unfurl yards and yards of fabulous sarees and then fold them up again.
February 21st found us at Anne’s again for another lunch prepared by Anne and her helper Angel who produced the best lunch:  masala dosa – crispy pancakes made from rice and filled with spicy potato -and chai masala – black tea flavoured cloves, cardamom, ginger, cinnamon and pepper served with hot milk and sugar. I got her recipe for the tea which is easy but the dosa’s are more involved. The tea is extra fragrant because the spices are so fresh. We went to see a Bollywood movie in the afternoon at a local cinema – just like home only with some different snacks! It was in Tamil so we couldn’t understand a word but the plot wasn’t too hard to figure out and everyone else in the audience thought it was hysterical so that was quite fun.

Sam’s Villa

The next morning we were up early to get a taxi from Sam’s Villa where we were staying to the airport at 4:30 to beat the traffic. It can take up to 2 hours to go 20 kms during the peak hours but it only took us half an hour. The flight stopped in Dubai where we changed planes and wandered around the airport for awhile. The contrast was staggering. Everything in Dubai was super clean, bright and so quiet! Kind of boring!

We arrived in Kuwait in the late afternoon and spent the night at the Movenpick Hotel where Wally has been living since October. We were extra appreciative of the hot hot showers, fluffy white towels and lovely white duvet with feather pillows. On the 23rd, Wally went out to the job site to visit with his buddies and I puttered around getting organized at the hotel. We also visited with Wally’s friend Harry and his wife Ning and their little boy Malik who just gets cuter every time we see him.
There was some excitement before we left as Wally got an email a few hours before we were set to go that night telling us that our flight to Amsterdam had been cancelled and that we were rerouted on different airlines home – Wally going through Frankfurt, Germany and me going through Washington, DC. Fortunately, Wally was able to navigate the airline phone system and get us on the same plane to Frankfurt with Lufthansa and then to Detroit on Delta. We ended up hiring a car through About-town as we were going to miss the Robert Q we had booked for 1:30 and the next one wasn’t available until after 8:00 p.m.

My first thought on opening the door to our clean, warm, spacious home was – wow, as much as we loved every minute of our adventure, it sure is good to be home! We have been unpacking, sorting out photos and souvenirs, reminiscing about all of the amazing things we saw and did, reconnecting with family and friends and reminding each other that it wasn’t a dream. Emily is away this week in Pennsylvania visiting her boyfriend so it is weird not having her at home. The cats are confused but adjusting well.

Thanks to everyone who helped out at home checking in with Emily, cleaning out the driveway, putting food in the fridge (thanks Mom and Dad), covering my yoga classes and for reading the blog. It is such a great privilege to be able to travel in this way, to come home safe and content and to be able to share some of our experiences with our friends and family. Looking forward to connecting with you soon!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Temple at Mamallapuram

This was one of the last stops on the tour to see the World Heritage Site at Mamallapuram . There are several temples in different styles each one carved from huge single rocks. There were also lots of stone carvers in the area doing fabulous work. I thought that a pair of 5 foot carved elephants would look marvelous in the back yard but Wally thought they would be hard to get in the luggage!

We stayed at another beautiful resort on the Bay of Bengal where we had our last group dinner. Feeling sad that the tour was coming to an end.

Pondicherry Continued

Bay of Bengal

We have a gorgeous view of the Bay of Bengal with a lovely beach just steps away from the hotel. Here are our feet in the Indian Ocean which is way warmer than Lake Huron in July or the aquatic centre on a Monday night in January! We have taken a few dips in as well!

Today’s tour took us to the Sri Aurobindo ashram in town. We didn’t get to see much of the property but were able to send a few moments at the shrine to this revered mystic who died in 1950. I’ll have lots of reading to do when I get home. I’m trying to figure out how yoga fits into this landscape and culture.

From there we toured another temple dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant headed god, no pictures allowed. Outside the temple many women were seated on the ground making jasmine garlands or small bouquets of pink lotus flowers which are stacked up about 2 feet deep. This image alongside people begging or selling tacky souvenirs made in China.

Only two more sleeps on the tour which brings up so much emotion – gratitude, sadness, some relief as we are getting road weary, and overall such complete happiness. We will have three nights in Chennai then back to Kuwait and home from there. Looking forward to seeing everyone at home and sleeping in our own bed!

The Magic of Pondicherry

Subash Walks On Water

Our tour guide Subash continues to perform miracles for us – getting us on the right train, finding tea and “pee pee” stops on the wild roads, helping us run the gauntlet of hawkers and beggars at the tourist sites, finding ATMs in unlikely places, making sure the lime sodas have no ice, helping us understand the culture, advising when it is okay and not okay to take photos, sharing his philosophy of life, entertaining us with his many hilarious stories and helping us see the beauty and wonder of it all. We think that he walks on water and that was confirmed this morning while I was swimming a few laps at the spectacular swimming pool here at Le Pondy Resort!

February 16 – Periyar to Madurai to Pondicherry by Train

The past several days have continued to amaze us.

Internet access and access to computers has been very limited so I am not able to share many photos at this time. I will post more photos as soon as I can access a reliable computer with a high speed internet connection.

We spent Feb 13 & 14 at a wonderful resort in Periyar and explored the tiger reserve. The day we arrived we took a tourist boat on Periyar Lake and viewed many kinds of birds and wildlife, including wild boar, deer and water buffalo.

The next morning turned out to be one of the top highlights of our trip to India. We went for an early morning hike in the forest reserve with a park guide to do some bird watching and about halfway through our walk we encountered a group of 8 wild elephants. This was very exciting and, at the same time intimidating for all of us – including the guide. We retreated a safe distance away from the path the elephants were following and then quietly observed them from a distance. It will be extremely hard to top that one!

On Feb 15 we arrived in Madurai and toured the Hindu temple complex. This site is very significant to Hindu devotees and is comprised of 4 main towers plus dozens of passageways and shrines. It averages between 20,000 to 60,000 visitors each day – depending upon the time of year. The energy we felt from all of the within the temple was very special.

On Feb 16 we departed Madurai for Pondichery. This portion of our journey featured a 5 hour train ride. We were all very glad that our guide Subash was with us to help us find the platform and assigned seats. The crowds preparing to board with us were substantial and we would not have made it without him. We departed the station at 6:45am and had a very pleasant trip. Vendors selling tea, coffee, cold drinks and an amazing variety of hot foods passed through the car frequently. No danger of going hungry or thirsty on this trip!